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Double Sided Motherboard

Easier to cool
  (+3, -6)
(+3, -6)
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I like the idea of energy efficient PCs and I like the idea of totally silent PCs a lot more. If you're like me you want a compromise between the 200W top of the range monster CPU and an Atom or low power 386 compatible.

This pretty much brings you to mobile chipsets and CPU's which still kick out 30 watts of heat and require complicated cooling.

Why not simply have a double-sided motherboard ? One side would be devoted to cooling and butt up to a portion of the rear of the case which is one large heatsink. The other side of the MB has all the connectors which can go where they need to go by way of flying leads. Some internal and some to a different part of the case to provide IO. I guess if a new standard were to come about some connectors could even poke out of the rear of the case directly using the 'cooling side' of the MB.

This is a very simple approach to cooling, but unfortunately all that exists today are complicated heat pipe solutions that might as well come with plumbers' estimates - "it'll cost ya".

The last thing about using 'case conducted cooling' is that the case can be sealed (air tight, dust tight). If you need a fan it could be external so that you could unplug wipe and hoover without fear of MB static electricity destruction. Or buy 3 and replace as the bearings go.

[promoted from anno]

bigsleep, Mar 29 2009

Case = Cool(ing) http://gadgets.boin...vely-cooled-pc.html
[loonquawl, Mar 30 2009]

[link]






       But now you need to cool the outside of the case, and you've limited yourself on where you can set it.
phoenix, Mar 29 2009
  

       Set what ? CPU specs as they are you can get away with a 20-50 degree gradient between the chip and air temp.
bigsleep, Mar 29 2009
  

       "Set what ?"
Set (situate, place, position, install, put) the case.
  

       "CPU specs as they are you can get away with a 20-50 degree gradient between the chip and air temp."
With active cooling, sure. That doesn't seem to be what you're talking about
phoenix, Mar 29 2009
  

       That goes for either passive or active cooling. If the transfer of heat via the heatsink is insufficient you will need an external fan when you "set" the computer in a high ambient temperature (similar to a portable).   

       You've tipped me off here, I think what I'm really advocating by way of a cunningly disguised idea is that if a portable wasn't made of plastic, but a solid chunk of metal that dissipates heat much better, it wouldn't need to turn its fan on so much.
bigsleep, Mar 29 2009
  

       You'd need to wear gloves and snow pants so you don't burn yourself though.
Spacecoyote, Mar 29 2009
  

       One great method of making your computer energy efficient - underclocking. Slow it down, reduce the voltage. Now you are doing less calculations, using less power per calculation and your CPU will leak less current too. You probably weren't using your CPU much anyway.
Bad Jim, Mar 30 2009
  

       //One great method of making your computer energy efficient - underclocking//   

       Google SpeedStep. If you never need your max cpu power then you might as well get an Atom, otherwise you need to get rid of the heat.
bigsleep, Mar 30 2009
  

       Undervolting without underclocking is also an option if your mobo supports it.
Spacecoyote, Mar 30 2009
  
      
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