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I don't know many times have I have come up against the problem of cutting out something in a tight corner. Recipricating saws hit the tip or are too long. Circular saws don't have the distance or are too bulky. Renovators are too underpowered and don't have the material clearance.
How about a tool,
like a shearing handle that holds the combs, but instead of being recipricating, has a line of small circular blades. I'm thinking the blades are like those double blade saws but the blades are offset. Think Olympic symbol except consequecutive blades are in a diffferent plane.
The offset is to allow drive shafts and support frame in to the blade hubs but be covered by the next blade. The offset also allows material to freely escape.
Matching the turn of the circular blades allows for kickback control.
A couple of small guide spikes, from between the blades, could be used to grip material while plunging for stability and placement.
Motors are quite small and powerful now so could be packed into the handle. I wouldn't want the size to defeat the primary purpose, though. A cable drive could be an alternative solution and then a bigger motor and battery system could be utilised.
So when looking at those jobs, a smile on the inside is the norm.
That's what this Idea sounds like, to me. [Vernon, Nov 17 2016]
[RayfordSteele, Nov 17 2016]
[scad mientist, Nov 20 2016]
Another deep-cutting method [scad mientist, Nov 20 2016]
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||The norm is smiling inside.
||Dremel makes a good one too. I think this idea might have too many moving parts. (+) for the visual.
||Precursor to the Dremelight Saber. Nifty! [+]
||Do you envision this being used only in a plunging motion,
or also pushing it sideways once plunged?
||I used to date an engineer who talked like that in bed when she got excited ;-)
||How about a square hole drill bit?
||A mortice drill bit and its chisel box take a lot of push force. The one i used to use was in a drill press. Cutdrill would be easier to push.
||[Vernon] the blades are like small circular saw blades alternating on eitherside of the drive mechanism.
----N-----V-----N---- V-----N drive mechanisms
edge on the 5 discs
||[scad mientist]I can imagine if there is room then cutting along, at 45deg, like a normal renovator would be posssible. Although plunge cutting in steps along a line would be safer.
||The "drawing" helped a lot to see what you
intended. How do you remove material left
between the blades? That could limit the cutting
||This is a bit similar to the Cut-n-Break <link>. The
cut-n-break is mainly meant for concrete, so again
removing the wood between the blades could be
an issue in some situations.
||Have you considered using a chainsaw for this?
You might want to get a carbine tipped chain if
there could be any nails.
I was imagining a very powerful, hair trimmer sized, plunge cutter for 2x4, heavy floor board.
Thinking circular blades rather than recipricating.
||Wood break out would depend on gap between blades and type of wood grain.
A chain might be a way to go but again the drive wheel might bulk up tool size. Circular would have better swarf clearing on plunging.