h a l f b a k e r yBirth of a Notion.
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Portion 1 - a special chalk-line fill which incorporates UV-reactive particles.
Portion 2 - a small, motorized set of wheels built into the saw, along with a pairs of photocells and a UV lamp along the front edge.
After snapping a fancy glowing chalkline, the saw is set at the edge of the board,
with each of the pair of photocells straddling the chalk. When the saw is powered on, the UV lamp comes on, and the wheels start pulling the saw forward. As the glowing line moves beneath one of the photocells, the wheel on that side of the saw speeds up, pushing the saw in the opposite direction until the line is centered once again. The tolerances would need to be pretty tight if you wanted to use it for cabinetmaking, but I'm sure it would still do a better job than I, personally, am capable of doing freehand.
beginning wood working
http://www.sawdustmaking.com/
[ato_de, Feb 26 2005]
Woodsmen
http://www.5ad.org/hurtgen.htm
For the sake of citizen Ryan [mensmaximus, Mar 01 2005]
[link]
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Interesting idea, ems. [+] Welcome. |
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Measure the distance between the blade and the left edge of the base plate. Take an offcut of a sheet with a (factory cut) straight edge down one side and postion it on the sheet you wish to cut exactly that distance to the left of the chalk line. Clamp the offcut down. Run the saw through the sheet, keeping the base plate pushed up hard against the offcut. Admire your perfect cut. Go inside and see what's happening at the Halfbakery. Welcome [emswookiee]. |
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I suspect that the draft from the saw-blade would blow the chalk away. Not bad though. |
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Wagster, your method is the most used but not good enough. My circular saw is not the best and when I applie your method the back of the saw-base tends to run away from the offcut so that the cut I'm making becomes broader than the blade. If I want to correct this by holding the saw-base tightly to the offcut the blade goes astray and cuts at an angle more accute than 45 degrees. Maybe I would not have this problem if my saw was better. |
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They sell aluminium thingies at the store to guide the saw, but I find it difficult to align these kinds of gadgets. |
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I can imagine this idea marketed with laser technoloy. Easy to work with light weight for onsite work. Bun. |
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Well yes, without a good saw it doesn't matter what method you use, you still won't get a good cut. |
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//I'm sure it would still do a better job than I, personally, am capable of doing freehand.// I doubt this [emswookie], even if you suffer badly from the shakes - I just can't see a device like this having anywhere near the necessary level of accuracy. I can't bone this idea though, it's well halfbaked. |
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My thoughts exactly, bought a tablesaw or whatever it is called in english. It is so good... really, it is so good...<starts drooling> |
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Thoroughly mad, add some rudimentary decision making circuitry and turn it loose to make it's own sculpture [+] |
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As to your cuts, I agree that your main problem lies in your cheap saw. A good quality skill saw will fix most of your problems. Also, setting up the saw blade depth and lubricating the guide properly will greatly contribute to a true cut. Choosing the proper blade has some impact as well. |
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There's a Black & Decker saw with a red light set up in it. It's supposed to make you cut dead straight. The truth is, you cut in whatever direction the light is pointing. I think the designer should have been invited to the 'bakery. It's just so... useless. Like a Piaggio tricycle with a towing hitch. |
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I thought carpenters work in a 30% error zone, that's why they are carpenters. |
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What is a 30% error zone? Like, out by 3metres in 10, or something? |
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A self-straightening circle is the shortest distance between two radii. |
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Hah! Now, there's an idea. |
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A carpenter friend once said that if one walks into a room that he has renovated, one can't notice that 30% of it is flawed workmanship. |
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I'm fairly certain that figure would be closer to 10%, unless German carpenters are worse than others. |
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The carpenter was from the Black Forest region of Germany and apparently that wood is more difficult to work with. |
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It's still softwood. Unless it's from the Huertgen Forest, where much of the old timber still contains shell splinters from the 1944 battles. |
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Try working with eucalyptus hardwoods. They take the edge off planing knives and chisels very quickly. Tungsten carbide blades are almost obligatory, for tradesmen. |
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Oh, for a 4 X 8 sheet of 3/8" mahogany/softwood/red cedar ply and a bag of miniature solid brass clasps and hinges made by an Italian shotgun shell company. |
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The authentic round-sided Cuban cigar boxes with embossed lettering and insignia, I could make. |
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Just went through a twenty day battle description of Colonel Lanham's transcendental experience with the infantrymen of the the 22nd Regiment under the light of the exploding 88's in the Huertgen forest. Men with three days battle experience leading new recruits with one. Every officer down to the sergeants gone. 9300 casualties in eleven months. |
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The trendy used furniture/antique stores will buy the contents of a home carpenter's half-ton van that holds items of his stressing/antiquing business on a one day tour. I've been offered $20 a cigar box at a garage sale once. A local jewellery box maker wants me to source the parts to co-build these. |
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Huertgen Forest was one of the really bad ones. It's rarely written about and rarely talked about. What's the history called? I'd be interested to read it. |
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