h a l f b a k e r yWhat was the question again?
add, search, annotate, link, view, overview, recent, by name, random
news, help, about, links, report a problem
browse anonymously,
or get an account
and write.
register,
|
|
|
Please log in.
Before you can vote, you need to register.
Please log in or create an account.
|
Car alternators are robust devices which typically output at a modest (12 or 24V) DC output to charge the vehicle's battery and drive ancillary equipment.
Internally, they actually produce AC, not DC, and therefore a rectifier/regulator is integrated.
Since AC is available, it would make more sense
to generate a higher voltage which would be more useful for external equipment but still easy to switch down to vehicle power levels.
BorgCo engineers have designed a range of aftermarket alternators that are plug-compatible with many common models, and fit in the same form factor*. The only obvious difference is a waterproof connector with a sealing cover positioned in an easily** accessible position.
Installation is a simple like-for-like exchange.
To use a 110V appliance, just plug it into the alternator using the cable supplied. Exceeding the rated load will give an immediate indication to the user; the supply will automatically shut off (DeLuxe version) or the alternator will burst into flames (basic version, and all production units marked Version 3 Revision F or earlier).
*Some installations may require an external module
** Depending on alternator location on the vehicle's engine.
[link]
|
| |
Most anything that plugs into a household 110V outlet is designed for 60 Hz AC, so you might run into problems when the engine idle speed changes (if you turn on the air conditioning or the engine is cold, etc.) since the frequency would change. You might need some sort of additional idle control similar to that on a portable generator to keep the engine speed constant. |
|
| |
You'd also need a big step-down transformer to convert 110V to 12V for the car battery. It might be easier to have a second alternator, or maybe a second stator for the 110V circuit. |
|
| |
You wouldn't need a transformer - too big and heavy; use a switchmode PSU. But you're right about the need for frequency stabilization at 50Hz (for the civilized world and france) and 60Hz for the USA. |
|
| |
If you're using a switch-mode power supply, it's not much
more effort to synthesize 110VAC, 60Hz from the existing 12V
supply, which is readily accessible from various points around
the vehicle. |
|
| |
Also, why 110V rather than a more useful 230V? Even some
American houses now have 240V for larger appliances, and no
doubt they'll move over to 240V throughout in time. |
|
| |
Because 110V (or rather, centre-tapped 55-0-55) is the de facto standard for industrial outdoor power tools. They're much safer* than 230V equipment in an outdoor environment. |
|
| |
Inverters are not that efficient, and then there's the bulk of the unit, and cooling requirements plus heavy cabling for the DC supply. |
|
| |
*Our legal advisors have informed us that "safety" is in some way important but they seem vague on the exact details. |
|
| |
If you're aiming for the users of "industrial outdoor power
tools", you're aiming for a thin market segment with domestic
users wanting 230V on one side, and many "industrial" users
wanting more 110V power than the average car alternator is
apt to provide on the other. |
|
| |
What you really need, to ensure sales, is a porn application.
Maybe a range of 110V vibrators? |
|
| |
Almost completely unrelated to this idea, I read that pH modified water is better at cleaning, so you could use a little electricity at windshield wipers to make pH for cleaning optimized water for cleaner windows. |
|
| |
Perhaps you could even just have conductive rubber at the windshiled wipers, with an insulator between sides, and 99 parts cathode (or anode) on one side and 1 part anode (or cathode) on the reverse side, making big areas of the preferred pH. |
|
| |
Nah, electric windows are Baked and WKTE ... |
|
| |
pH modified... Hmmm. Alkaline? What for
saponifying bug guts? Interesting. I'll dump half a kg
of
caustic soda in my washer bottle and report back. |
|
| |
Let us know how your paintwork holds up. |
|
| |
That could add an extra level of entertainment to having one washer nozzle "mis-set" so that when washing the screen at traffic lights any cyclists alongside get a jet of foul-tasting detergent -laden water in the face ... |
|
| |
Purely accidental, of course. |
|
| |