h a l f b a k e r y
Replace "light" with "sausages" and this may work...
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Guitar strings are adjusted with little dealies, which
collectively are referred to as the machine head. The
strings wrap around a pulley and are wound up or loosened
to obtain the correct string tension.
When the tension is near-correct, the difference between
in-tune or out-of-tune is very
small - maybe one-sixteenth
(or less) of a turn of the dial.
So this is to make the pulleys on a machine head in the
shape of spiral grooves that start out large and become
progressively smaller. Choosing the correct starting point
on each spiral will align the string with a very small
diameter section, for greater ease and precision of tuning,
and reduced sensitivity to random jostling of the
Boy, that sure takes me back...
[normzone, Mar 16 2010]
Machine heads are for wimps [pocmloc, Mar 16 2010]
Steinberger high-ratio tuners
[angel, Mar 16 2010]
[angel, Mar 18 2010]
[afinehowdoyoudo, Mar 31 2010]
||I string my guitars with only a couple of turns around
the post, so this really wouldn't help me (not that I've
found it to be an issue anyway). You can get Schaller
machines with 12, 14 or 16:1 ratio, or try 40:1
Steinbergers (linky) if you're really picky.
||but strings stretch, don't they? I don't think I'm understanding the point of the spiral pulleys. edit; forget the former. I think I got it.
||its a good idea but how would you assure that the string was going to be in the "fine" rather than the "coarse" section of the spool when properly tensioned?
||Cellos are often built with two tuning pegs - the big wooden ones at the head, plus small metal 'fine-tuners' at the other end of each string. I imagine guitars could be approached the same way. [+] for sheer ingenuity, though.
||Floyd-Rose trem units also have fine-tuners, as do
||Ian, I'd be more than happy to take that off your hands, I would... hmm... <sigh> I'd add it to the Stage73 with a warped soundboard I've been meaning to figure out how to unwarp, and an M3 which is in approximately a million pieces (but the generator now turns freely) which I don't want to put together again 'cuz I'd then find out something else is wrong with it and have to take it apart again... almost certainly needs re-capping at the very least.
||2600's have those wax or plastic-filled circuit bins or something don't they ? intellectual-property protection c.1970.
||[iron horse] I'm almost positive that there's a crank you can fit onto a peg handle that lets you wind very quickly. Then you could use small diameter pegs, but it wouldn't take an hour to get each one into fine tuning range.
||Those Steinbergers are cool. Likewise, using a
secondary fine-tuning mechanism would help (me).
||A coarse ratio is only useful when installing strings,
i.e. to make the number of turns needed to retain
the strings to the posts. If there is a different
method of retaining the strings, they can be
installed with no slack, and the tension
immediately applied (through a high ratio
mechanism). I think the amount that strings
stretch is in the 'fine' range rather than the
||[iron_horse], if you lock the strings to the posts, you
only need a couple of turns when you install them.
This also means that there's less likelihood of the
turns collapsing onto those underneath, with
resulting flattening of the note.
you can fit onto a peg handle//? Mine is Dunlop-
pattern (but Gibson branded - I bought a Gibson
goody-bag shortly after I got my Les Paul), but there
are others (linky).