h a l f b a k e r yAssume a hemispherical cow.
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Some days I ride my fixie, other days my 1x11, and when the weather is crummy I take the belt drive. They're all kinda similar except for how the power gets from my feet to the rear wheel,
SO...
Picture a bicycle with the crank/chainrings and the rear cogs removed.
The bottom bracket shell
is modified to allow a crankset to be easily installed/removed with just one or two large allen wrenches. The rear axle and dropouts/track ends and wheel are modified to allow the wheel to be driven by a gear mounted *outside* of the chainstay, cantilevered against the dropout.
The driveline itself consists of a single frame element that can be bolted or clamped along the chainstay, Up front it may have any chainring/belt hub/derailleur of your choice, and at the back whatever components you need to work with what's up front. Someone might even want a shaft-drive, even though that's plain crazy.
Advantage #1 - A single bike frame can accommodate any number of driveline types. The manufacturer/reseller will have fewer stock numbers to carry, no need to make a different frame for belt vs chain, or fixie vs multiple gears, or even plain crazy shaft drives.
Advantage #2 - The owner can buy one frame with more than one driveline. Assuming the driveline can be swapped out easily with simple tools, it will take up less garage space than having a different bike for each type of ride.
Advantage #3 - Theft prevention. Take the driveline with you when you leave the bike somewhere. Run a u-bolt or other lock through the empty bottom bracket shell. Even if a thief gets through the lock, the bike won't be easy to ride away (unless they're carrying a spare driveline in their backpack).
Chainline
https://www.gmbn.co...ng-conversion-guide
Far out [4and20, Apr 04 2024]
Allen Mliyard's bikes
https://youtu.be/S3...si=4dAZ2Uyq2G8aoPoC
[bs0u0155, Apr 05 2024]
[link]
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I'm so out of touch with cycling that a "1x" is entirely new to me. However, a nice, exhausted looking British man made a video saying you'd have to watch the distance of your chainline, which changes based on your (mountain) bike's rear hub spacing. So there. |
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Is there an additional gear? I.e. chain to gear, gear to rear wheel? That's often not tolerated (like shaft drive) by cyclists because even a 1-2% loss of efficiency makes the bike feel like a dog. Personally, I think Alan Milliyard's bikes did some real innovating <link> |
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// Is there an additional gear // |
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Can if you see a need, but doesn't have to be. I think the basic concept here will appeal to someone who wants a lot of options, but weight weenies and friction fighting fanatics will not be impressed. |
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//weight weenies and friction fighting fanatics will not be impressed.// |
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I have a '60s Raleigh Sports. After fitting a massively over spec front drum brake, I consider it the perfect bicycle. Transport, not compromised race replica. |
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//a 1-2% loss of efficiency makes the bike feel like a dog// |
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Maybe a 1-2% gain of efficiency would make my dog feel like a bike. That would confuse him. |
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You need a modular dog. Tim Burton's "Frankenweenie"? |
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